Wednesday, July 04, 2007

Let's Talk About Cow Intestines

I had dinner with Tasha last night (make that 'Mi-Sook-noona' - I asked if I could stop calling her 'Tasha' her "slave name" as I like to call it, as it was forced on her by SLP, and she told me this is how I should address her - I was a little surprised that she attached the 'noona' suffix, which is an honorific somewhat akin to 'aunt' or 'ma'am'...I thought we were closer than that, but the age disparity btw us is pretty large, and that means a lot in Korea).

Whoa, what a lengthy digression.

Anyway, as I said I had dinner with Mi-Sook noona last night, her husband Tae Yeon, and their energetic 2 year old daughter, Min Young.

After I'd gotten my phone up and running I'd texted her and she called me back. I suggested we meet for dinner some time and she said that sounded great. Tasha, excuse me, Mi-Sook noona has been my companion for my most adventurous culinary investigations here in Korea, some of them failures (the dog balls) some of them successes (we once had a really good duck meal) all of them memorable. Last night was no exception.

When I met her in Yeokgok station she was full of suggestions. One of the first she produces was bo-shin-tang, dog meat soup, but I let her know that despite my apparent eagerness last year when we consumed the meat sans the broth I was none too keen on reliving that particular nightmare. "I'll try anything once," I said, and unlike most Korean English speakers she has a knack for detecting linguistic subtlety, and did so last evening.

Her most promising non-pet-related suggestion was "yang" or mutton. That actually sounded really appetizing, the last mutton meal I'd had was a terrifically bizarre one, on Christmas Even in Beijing with Lara and Drew and a string of Pakistani belly dancers, and so I said it sounded great.

We met up with her husband and her daughter and made our way to the restaurant. It was deserted when we arrived, but we were pretty early by Korean standards (it was about 7 PM). Mi Sook noona engaged the restauranteur in a lively discussion for a moment, and then translated for me . This was not, in fact, a "yang" restaurant, this was a "tuhk yang" restaurant. "Tuhk yang" is the Korean word for the "first cow's stomach," as it was relayed to me, or to put it a little more understandably: the first part of the cow's stomach. I think I recall from my AP Biology days that the cow's stomach has four parts. What a magnificent creature, is it any wonder a significant chunk of the world worships it?


Well we were going to be a little less reverential and eat it. I said it sounded interesting and that I'd like to try it, mainly b/c there were galbi-like grills at every table, and so it appeared that whatever we'd be eating, it'd at least be cooked, and more or less cooked by the standards of those consuming it...I could let my cow intestines burn black before I put 'em in my mouth, if I so chose.


We took a seat and the matron emerged from the kitchen a moment later with a plate full of slimy pale meat. There were two kinds of 'cuts,' if you will, there were broad thin pieces that sort of looked like a slice of turkey, which had probably come from the cow's stomach line. Then there were the more intestinal looking pieces, which were small tubes about as long and thick as your pinky and which had some sort of goo packed inside of them. To wit:

She plopped them down on the grill in front of us, cut them up into bite sized pieces, and turned on the heat.

And let me tell you something: that's some damn good eating. Not only was it edible, not only was it passable, it was tasty. I'd like to have it again. You get yourself a slice of cow stomach, take a chunk from the potatoes they provide with the meat, and put a few onions on there, and that's a hella bite outta life. Quoth me after two bottles of soju: "that was flippin good, Tasha!"

So once again I am indebted to my noona for broadening my dining horizons. To look at me one might thing my horizons are broad enough as is, but Korea is a constant reminder that, well, they ain't.

No comments: